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Beginning in 1959, Bowles began to collect and record Moroccan folk music in remote areas of the country.
This travel piece entitled "The Worlds of Tangier" was written in 1958―one of many travel articles he wrote during his exceptional life.This famous hotel near the Place de France, with its gardens, palms, bougainvillea, swimming pool and sea views, abruptly closed in 1992 and languished, gutted, for seventeen years.In 2003, the Municipality of Tanger designated the building and site as a historic landmark, and in 2009 the hotel underwent a three-year restoration, renovation and expansion.Paul Bowles described that earlier Tangier as an "attractive, quiet town of about 60,000 inhabitants".In January 1948, his wife Jane Bowles, also a writer, moved to Tangier to be with her husband who had just bought a small house in the upper Medina.The back streets of the Medina, crooked, sometimes leading through short tunnels beneath the houses, sometimes up long flights of stairs, lend themselves to solitary speculative walks.
With nothing more dangerous than pedestrians and an occasional burro to worry about bumping into you, you can devote part of your mind to coming to grips with your ideas.When Bowles left New York City in 1947 to write The Sheltering Sky, he had already been familiar with Tangier for sixteen years.On his first visit to Tangier in August 1931, Bowles was accompanied by his music teacher and friend the composer Aaron Copland.Their upright piano had fallen off a donkey during its transport up to the Old Mountain to the house which they had rented in Sidi Masmoudi, but the piano was soon repaired but badly tuned, and they settled down to write music in earnest.Gertrude Stein, who Bowles had associated with in Paris, recommended he try Tangier as a place to live and work.A town, like a person, almost ceases to have a face once you know it intimately, and visual modifications are skin-deep; the character is determined largely by its inhabitants, and a good deal of time is required to change their attitudes and behavior.